What Is Nubuck Leather?
What started in the 1930’s as the buckskin of wild animals, has turned into an iconic material used for shoes and auto interiors in today’s modern world. Wallets, handbags, and furniture are a few ways nubuck is sold in today’s market. From high-class closets to your very first car, nubuck leather is tried and true.
Top-grain calfskin is used for nubuck because it’s known for its resilience. However, there tends to be more blemishes and unique differences in the grain because top-grain is thick and tough. The outer layer of the leather is then refined through a series of buffing and sanding, equating to a velvety-soft finish. Although visually appealing, these processes lead to a slight tousle of the shortened protein fibers that occasionally need to be brushed out with a nubuck brush. To cover up any inconsistencies, nubuck leather is often stained. However, you can find it in a variety of raw, stained, or dyed finishes.
Advantages of Nubuck Leather
Comfort
Any item made in nubuck leather is comfortable to the touch. During the tanning processes of ridding the leather of any impurities, short fibers are created, making the finish extremely soft. It also looks sleek and refined in any product or form.
Durability
Since nubuck is made from the hardier side of the cattle skin, it is extremely durable. This allows a longer lasting look, although the leather is prone to scratches in the exposed grain. These scratches are not damaging and can be faded by brushing the area.
Low-maintenance
Cleaning and maintaining any type of leather is vital, and nubuck is no different. One of the many advantages of this type of leather is its low-maintenance upkeep. Polishing the collagen fibers with oil can keep the material looking brand-new, but are not required due to its fibrous surface. Remembering to only use cloths and brushes made specifically for nubuck is the key to upkeep. For more on how to care for your leather, head to our Leather Care Guide.
Breathability
Nubuck’s breathability is another frequently mentioned advantage. This can be a deal-breaker, especially when it comes to any purchase that will spend time against your skin. Opposed to other synthetic leathers, this type of material has the ability to absorb and release sweat and water droplets.
Disadvantages of Nubuck Leather
Natural Imperfections
Due to the hardy hide layers used to create nubuck leather, natural imperfections and marks in the hide can be revealed. These natural marks can be covered up through the tanning process mentioned earlier, but occasionally raw uniqueness can still show through the finished product. This might seem a disadvantage for some, but it’s also the very reason that many people seek out nubuck leather. In fact, finding imperfections is a common tactic for avoiding faux leather. Many people consider leather imperfections proof of a high-quality product.
Price
Nubuck leather products are often long-lasting luxury items, and that is reflected in the price of the products. For the same reason that a diamond ring is typically preferred over jewelry from the dime store, many find nubuck worth its price.
Exposure Risks
Due to the exposed grain, nubuck may not be suitable for high amounts of mud or dirt. Sun exposure can also cause discoloration or cracking, but this is only in extreme amounts. Similarly, the raised fibers retain more water when wet, so it is recommended not to fully submerge nubuck. There are sprays and finishes that can be used to create water resistant surfaces. Saturation will cause the material to darken, but only until dried. Nubuck is soft to the touch and scratches easily. However, the material is meant to patina for a natural, worn effect that will only make it more unique over time.
Nubuck Leather vs. Other Leathers
At first glance these leathers might look very similar. But in fact they are cut and treated differently, resulting in very different products.
Split (Suede)
This type of leather is composed of the innermost layer of the calfskin, making it a thinner cut. Some products commonly made in suede are shoes, bags, gloves, and curtains. Although its pliable nature is valued, suede is known to damage easily. This leather is very similar in look and feel to nubuck, but can be less expensive since it’s considered less durable.
Full-grain
If you are looking for natural-looking leather with minimal cover up, then full-grain might be the way to go. Although it isn’t as soft as nubuck with its velvet-like fibers, full-grain is initially blemish and defect free making it unnecessary to sand. Nappa leather is an example of full-grain leather whose natural grain is preserved with a specialized finish that makes for great auto interiors and bags. Although made from the strongest part of the animal, full-grain leather stands with nubuck in durability.
Aniline
Pure-anilines and full-anilines are different from their leather counterparts in that they don’t have any protective layers, leading to more scratches and stains. These styles show the raw grain, inconsistencies and all. This makes nubuck the preferred choice in durability.
Semi-aniline is another type of aniline leather that may have added oil or wax finishes, creating protective top coats and a more uniform look. Harness, English Bridle, and Essex leathers fall under this category of vegetable-tanned semi-aniline leathers, due to their protective tanning processes. These lead to more durable leather than pure-aniline that holds its shape, perfect for belts and wallets. If you are looking for a more natural leather full of character (one that’s undergone far less tanning treatments), then aniline might be the best fit.
We took a deep-dive into types of leather in this article, if you’d like to learn more.
In Conclusion
What is nubuck? It’s a solid choice when looking for a material that is durable, yet fashion-forward. The natural beauty of nubuck leather can be kicked up a few notches or subdued based on customer preference. With its soft texture, durability, and unique appearance, we have a hard time saying ‘no’ to nubuck.